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Description
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Fabric has astretch

The garment in the portrait is made of silk faille and silk satin, two fabrics considered to be quite fashionable at the time, which Chase has differentiated between by painting areas of black that look dull and others that seem to have a sheen
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Sleeves: Short-Sleeve

As Wired.com points out, a digital analysis of the dress photo shows that one of the spots of black trim is actually orange in the photo

What Was Princess Diana's 'Revenge Dress'
